Видео

Yep, it does!

IMO, the SCT410 2.0 drives better than the SCT410.3. Durability wise the .3 has the advantage along with the motor mount. So, it's a trade off. There are mods out there to fit the EB48 2.X motor mount to the SCT410 2.0 though - it will require moving the side guard and possibly the chassis plate to make it work. According to Tekno, they did extensive testing on the 13mm vs 17mm shocks on the SCT and it came down to the team liking the 13mm and how tunable those were for slightly lighter vehicles. I always preferred the 17mm shocks though - which is something that can be modded easily as well - but you will have to tune it. As for parachute effect - all SCT's suffer. The .3 probably had it worse IF you didn't use the plexi sideboards. I think the SCT410 2.0 did well with the parachute effect, but I did cut out quite a bit of the rear of the body.

The original 22 is a classic now!

Thanks buddy! This was a fin truck

If built properly and also driven properly, it will not nose dive. The usual culprit is driving style OR your rear shock package

You will be amazed on the difference.

Any good Lipo battery charger will charge these. Make sure you have the correct connector as well for the charger to go up to the GensAce battery connector

Do you have a recommendation for a good lipo charger

Likely....and that I drove it in a U4RC race....

Yes, you can use the Pro4HD with a 3s, but you need the 3000kv motor. If you use the 4300kv or 3500kv, you'll have heat issues

Technically a Li-ion. But yeah, small and toy like

It's a pretty great truck. Very stable at speed with it's length and weight.

Strange, you can see mine functioning properly.

@@TheRCNetwork Figured it out.. the rearmost piece that holds the rod was upside down.. I always thought parts like that were "fat side down" but I was wrong.. after looking at the instructions again... the thin side faces down.. when I flipped them over, everything came together butter smooth

Strange, you may want to reset your ESC and match your ESC to your radio again. But why would you be using a 3s only with a 2200kv?

For the ET, yeah, no problem.

@@TheRCNetwork which one was faster the same track?

Between which RC's? Fast is all relative to the driver and the track. If you're talking speed, that's just a mathematical equation. How fast will it go down the straight? As fast as you can before you have to turn at the first corner! If you're talking time - that's 100% driver skill

Nice!

I’ll gladly refund the money you paid to watch my video….

My ZT 0609 is anything but dull…..I was tearing into the box and not the tape like the second cut, if you watched…but I guess there’s always assholes that need to make shitty comments on videos that took serious work to do, but you wouldn’t know that

Just merely used so people could visualize

jconcepts.net/10th-Scale-Buggy_c_33.html

Nice! It’s a great truck and great build. Enjoy!

Yep, Novak was great stuff!

Thanks for stopping by and the kind words!

I like mine....probably my fav crawler next to my VS410 Pro

@@TheRCNetwork How far up does your left front wheel go before it stops?

They're in stock at Tekno right now: www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr9400-nt48-2-0-4wd-nitro-1-8th-scale-competition-truggy-kit/

@TheRCNetwork that's the Nt. I have it. I thought your video was on the Et. I'm sorry.

Oops. sorry. Yeah, I see it out of stock everywhere too. 1 of 2 things: 1. Tekno is updating it to the 2.1 platform, or 2. they're waiting for stock. I would bet they're updating it. You can try smaller shops to see if one's sitting around. Fierce Pete and Amain are usually the first to get things from Tekno

@@TheRCNetwork thank you very much! Love your channel! Top tier.

I found one on ebay that was in mint condition with tekin electronics. Couldn't pass it up.

Yeah, I can't agree more! I wouldn't doubt it, especially in CA where I'm from. I know that I've had issues in the past with prep, but I've refined my skills. The only other issue I have refined was that first coat being very, very light. Just enough to mist onto the body. Lastly, I know some people recommend hitting the inside of the body with a scotchbrite just to add texture for adhesion. I've never done this, but have heard it helps

The issue with the typhon is the body height. It will likely hit the inside of the body

Yeah, I heard a couple of days ago and pre-ordered one. I'll say - I had lunch with Eustace (Owner of MIP) in 2017 and told him the things that his company was missing: 2.0mm ball end, MIP tool case and a 1/4" QR Amber Handle. I'm thinking I wasn't comped for my ideas....

@@TheRCNetwork yeah I agree. Can we get some part time remote work opportunities where we develop product ideas and are compensated for suggestions??? Just a couple hours a week I could submit it as contract work if needed

It should be easy to do....if you can still find these

With today's brushless systems, 2 speed is really not needed in faster RC's. As for parts - you should still be able to find parts - remember the front end is Yeti and the rear end is Wraith/Bomber. As for rack racers, the Losi Rock Rey might slightly edge out the Yeti in some situations and the Losi Lasernut would be the only FIS suspension rig on the market. The Lasernut would be much easier to drive and be easier on the drivetrain (not having a solid rear axle)

So sorry, this RC is long gone from my collection and was replaced by the D4 in the end.

Nice! I really like the look of the Sports

Lipo is not perfect

I'd stick with the 8K - the 15K will make the 6s line handle weird from the added weight. Probably cause some heat issues as well

I agree, they stepped up the bead lock game

Not at all - the track was really blown out and many of the jump faces were destroyed. I tried to hit sections of the jumps that were still intact, but to the right of where I was standing and right in front of, it was bad. The SCT 2.0 drives really stable and probably the best SCT to date

As my title states "SL" and the key feature of these new (at the time) protek drivers were how light weight they were. That's what I focused on in this Tool Tuesday episode. I ended up using them for 1 solid year. Built countless kits and hundreds of repairs/upgrades. Looking back, the tips (the most important part of any driver) were equal to MIP - they didn't round over nor slip in any screw head. My Tool Tuesday videos merely showcase a new tool I received and it's intended use along with my opinion - all 70+ episodes. In the end, I did prefer the MIP handles over the knurled aluminum handles, regardless of how light they were - once again the key selling feature of the Proteks. What I find comical is your straight up asshole approach in a comment. I provide decent quality RC related content, that you somehow found on RUclips, yet you have to insult in the manner in which I provided it. It's trolls like you that make RUclips a vial place and why many digital creators have left. So go thank yourself for being a straight up douche - you've earned it.

Hey JWL - I'm doing great. I've pretty much hung up my RC hat, I'm down to just my EB48 2.0 but haven't RC'd much since 2022 when OCRC ended up closing down. I'm focused on some other hobbies now - mountain biking and my new Tacoma (I've got a channel for that one 😁.

Any decent balancing lipo charger should work for those.

I don't remember greasing them...they should slide right on

It should, but check the dimensions for height...that would be my only concern

It's ideal IMO - If you're racing it's one of the best options for SCT. If I were just bashing, I would swap out the 4300kv on 2s for a 3000kv on 3s. The 3s system will be better and less stress on everything vs. the 2s system (especially the batteries). Between Tekin and Hobbywing, I always prefer Tekin for my 1/8th scale systems like this one. For 1/10th scales (like buggies) I prefer the Hobbywing

I had the same pain...but after buying several sets of drivers, I ended up with these and they were the last. Still using this exact set to this day and I've built / maintained over 100 RC's now.

@@TheRCNetwork I found a seller in eBay that had them for 34.99 so I bit the bullet. Thanks for the feedback!

Mod 1 for the pinions on this

Yes, it used all the same diff cups and internals for all three. I later learned with I switched to Tekno that all that internal complication and HD diff cup was not necessary.

@@TheRCNetwork Thank you I bought the TLR ten scte 3.0 4x4 Used roller and I’m rebuilding everything I will order 3 of them. Just seems kinda odd that this same part for all three diff. Even the center diff looks different than the front and rear

The Infraction is probably still the more popular model - it's styled after the HooniTruck and has matching front/rear wheels/tires, where the felony has different sized front/rear wheels/tires

I'm not here to tell bedtime stories, Eddie. Please don't watch my channel then......

Thanks for stopping by! It was a great run of nearly 10 years on RUclips featuring RC's. Lots of fond memories, but time is a bit scarce these days with a newer career, new hobbies and my family. My videos will always be up for watching though! Happy RCing!

It's a great improvement and part of the new evolution of 2wd. The B5M was legendary though

@TheRCNetwork I just bought a used B5M that's in good condition. Do you think it can still be competitive? I'm planning to club race in the 17.5 class

Racing is 90% driver and 10% car usually. I'd pull the manual and set that buggy up to box stock 100% unless you can get a set up sheet for your track with that buggy. It will give you a chance to check everything and see how it's put together as well.

@TheRCNetwork I bought it used, and it has several aftermarket aluminum parts, I don't know who set it up, I got it from a young kid on Facebook. But it appears that someone has it set up well so well see. I bought it as a roller, so I'm waiting for a speed controller, I bought a hobbywing pro elite, and I'm still deciding on a motor, I'm thinking about a surpass V6 lite.

Yep, it's pretty solid over all

I'm not sure I understand what "pashing" is

​@@TheRCNetworkDoes CVD need alignment such as Universal Joint, so as not to bind..??

These are meant fro a 4wd crawler and shouldn't bind at all. You do have to have them in "phase" to keep the truck balanced